![]() ![]() I am not even sure where to start on this, I guess by saying that while doing what you suggest will work, it will not be very efficient. The pumps with ECM motors are much more efficient, a big consideration since we're off grid. Maybe they are the same as PEX? I got a Grundfos Alpha circulator for the floor loops and a Resideo (Honeywell) circulator with a speed control input for the boiler loop so the wood fired boiler can control its speed. PERT adapters are not listed but may be available. I got the Bluefin with PEX adapters and so far, everything is good. You can get the Caleffi manifold or for about half the money get a Bluefin stainless manifold. I installed PEX-B in an insulated concrete slab. There are a bunch of issues covering a lot of topics related to boilers, radiators, radiant heat and more: You might also check out the Caleffi Idronics magazine. Probably the boiler room forum is the most applicable: There are also a lot of knowledgeable people there who might provide useful feedback on your design. There is a lot of good info at the forums. They have video tutorials but some effort to figure it out will be required If you really want to jump in the deep end, you can get a trial copy of LoopCAD for free (linked on the Uponor web page) and it will calculate everything. This manual will walk you through the necessary calculations to set the water temp and flow. The Uponor Complete Design Assistance Manual (free) has a diagram almost identical to yours (not quite as detailed) on page 141 in the 7th edition. If the Rinnai won't turn down far enough, you might want to consider a small buffer tank to keep it from cycling as often. ![]() Depending on your heat loss and floor covering the hot water will need to be higher than that temp. How will you control the temperature to the PERT? Will the Rinnai turn down low enough? There are suggested limits for different floor coverings but you probably won't want the floor temp over 75-77F. It looks like you are planning to circulate hot water in the loop from the Rinnai and then use the zone pump to inject hot water into the PERT loop(s) in a primary/secondary loop configuration. I probably know just enough to get in trouble In those days I think I used Poly B but not even sure on that. It has been so long that I can't remember the names of the various plumbing fittings though I can see the whole thing in my mind. Or you will end up with cracked/heaved concrete.Īlso stay away from carpeting as it is "fabulous insulation" and it doesn't allow for easy movement of heat to people. Use an stay in place compressible form "board" where you are doing a concrete floor pour. One big mistake I made was not allowing for expansion of the concrete floors. so all you have to do later is attach the new feed lines for any new zone you add and of course the return lines so you won't have to shut down the whole system when adding new zones. Make your outflow and the return headers for the 4 zones now with the shut off valves/zone valves, etc attached and whatever type of connection you are using, going to use be it barbed, solder. The latter two had buried in concrete tubing and the house portion, two floors, had the tubing attached to the underside of the plywood floor in a normal wood framed house. I did a huge whole house radiant floor heating system many many many moons ago. I’m looking for input on whether my proposed design makes sense it’ll be powered by a new rinnai lp tankless water heater, feeding (eventually) 4 zones via zone valves. It looks easy enough and I can build the similar commercial $3k panel for less than $1 k in parts. I’ve buried the PERT tubing in the floor, now having to copy a commercial radiant heat control panel. ![]() Since I’m a thrifty type, most everything is DIY. I’m currently building an addition to our 20+ year old straw bale home. ![]()
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